Alessandro Dell’Acqua isn’t inclined to follow any fashion craze; anything that screams trendy makes him cringe. “I stick to my obsessions, they’re very dear to me,” he joked at a pre-fall appointment. His clothes are fit for the diva of a neo-noir Italian movie, with a twist of bourgeois eroticism, and a fine-tuned mix of what’s current with sensuous hints of retro.
“I always like the same things: lace, boudoir sensuality, the play of masculine versus feminine, a dash of leopard spots, the color of flesh, see-through,” he said. But he’s also partial to good tailoring, feminine bias-cut dresses with a flavor of the 1940s, the shine of sequins played against knitwear, and a touch of grunge. All of Dell’Acqua’s obsessions stayed put for pre-fall, only tweaked with just-so proportions for novelty and freshness.
The newest silhouette was slender, elongated, and small-shouldered, as in a covetable ankle-grazing double-breasted greatcoat in navy wool, whose big lapels hinted at the 1970s. On a similar small-proportions note, a short cappottino in nude stretch jersey layered in black lace was styled with a high-neck Breton striped marinière worn under a black velvet bra, and paired with high-waisted, masculine white cotton briefs.
The introduction of leaner shapes didn’t make the oversize offer look outdated. Generous volumes were less overwhelming though, conveying a sense of sensuous comfort rather than of powerful, assertive presence. Case in point was a round-shaped coat in black-and-white herringbone tweed with a fluffy collar. Elsewhere, a cloud-like enveloping fur coat made of shaggy pale lilac cashmere looked rather fabulous, as did a cinched-waist black wool overcoat, offset by an asymmetrical vortex of feathers.
There was a lot to like in the collection, but the dresses were definitely the most desirable pieces. Bias-cut in lingerie-nude or pale lilac crepe, in liquid sequins or in floral printed silk, they had a polish which contrasted with the nonchalant, grungy styling which is a Dell’Acqua’s signature.
via vogue runway
The silver sequins dress as seen worn by Hailey Bieber at her launch party for her skincare brand, Rhode, will be part of our pre fw 23 selection in-store & online.
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COMING SOON to Salvatore Schito
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